Tips for August

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Tips for August

Postby flaviop » Mon Jun 24, 2019 3:05 pm

Hi everyone, I'm 61 years old, I'm Italian.
From August 15th I will be in Leeds for 3 weeks. Tips for where to climb?
Also nice places to walk (the wife doesn't want to climb anymore) ....
flaviop
 
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Re: Tips for August

Postby Lindsay M » Tue Jun 25, 2019 8:01 am

What kind of grade do you climb and what gear do you have? Will you have access to a car?

There's lots of walking around here - the Yorkshire Dales is not far and neither is the Peak District, there are quite a few you can do without having to venture far out of Leeds. I can recommend the Walking Englishman site for lots of classic routes of varying length/difficulty https://www.walkingenglishman.com/
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Re: Tips for August

Postby flaviop » Tue Jun 25, 2019 8:10 am

Currently climbing on f6a, I am also equipped for trad. In May I climbed "the Old Man of Stoer." yes you could have a car.
flaviop
 
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Location: North Italy

Re: Tips for August

Postby Lindsay M » Tue Jun 25, 2019 8:21 am

There's not lots of sport climbing and it is all a bit of a drive away but you could go to Giggleswick (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1344, https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=604), Moughton Nab (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=4049), Robin Proctor's (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1359), Horseshoe Quarry (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=148). The sport climbing in Yorkshire/The Peak tends to be quarried limestone and can be chossy, helmets are a good idea.

For trad, Almscliff is close to Leeds, fast drying (exposed so take warm clothes) and is one of the most popular venues, you can take a train to Weeton and walk the rest of the way. The rock can be very polished and some find the grades a bit sandbagged (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=373). Stanage is possibly the most popular crag in the uk - 5km of gritstone so plenty to keep you amused (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=104, https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=101, https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=99). Brimham rocks is very cool for a walk and lots of climbing (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=538). Finally, Caley is a world class bouldering venue with some trad climbing also and can be reached by taking the bus towards Otley from Leeds. It can be quite green and take some time to dry after rain (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=540).
Lindsay M
 
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Re: Tips for August

Postby flaviop » Tue Jun 25, 2019 8:30 am

Thanks
flaviop
 
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Location: North Italy

Re: Tips for August

Postby Will Hunt » Tue Jun 25, 2019 8:30 am

Hi Flavio, will this be your first time climbing in England?

Depending on where you're from in Italy, the sport climbing in Yorkshire at the 6a mark might not be very spectacular. For sport climbing your best options are Giggleswick North and South, Moughton Nab, Robin Proctor's Scar, and Stony Bank. There is some world class sport climbing in Yorkshire but it is generally in the 7s and 8s.

If you've got trad gear and you want to experience a kind of climbing that is distinctly British then I think you'd have a much more memorable time on gritstone trad. Almscliff, Rylstone, Crookrise, Simon's Seat, Eastby, and Earl Crag are all great. If you've done the Old Man of Stoer then you should be fine climbing up to about HVS. Look for anything with 2 or 3 stars in the guidebook and you should have a very memorable time.

If you're based in Leeds then you're also not too far from the Lake District (about 2 hours drive). The climbing on Gimmer Crag is very good and dries quickly after the rain but it does get busy. If you want to experience British mountain trad at its finest then head up to Scafell Crag and do Great Eastern Route on the East Buttress in the morning and Moss Ghyll Grooves on the Main Crag in the afternoon. You'll need to set off early from Leeds but it would be magical on a warm day.
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Re: Tips for August

Postby Lindsay M » Tue Jun 25, 2019 8:33 am

Will Hunt wrote:Hi Flavio, will this be your first time climbing in England?

Depending on where you're from in Italy, the sport climbing in Yorkshire at the 6a mark might not be very spectacular. For sport climbing your best options are Giggleswick North and South, Moughton Nab, Robin Proctor's Scar, and Stony Bank. There is some world class sport climbing in Yorkshire but it is generally in the 7s and 8s.

If you've got trad gear and you want to experience a kind of climbing that is distinctly British then I think you'd have a much more memorable time on gritstone trad. Almscliff, Rylstone, Crookrise, Simon's Seat, Eastby, and Earl Crag are all great. If you've done the Old Man of Stoer then you should be fine climbing up to about HVS. Look for anything with 2 or 3 stars in the guidebook and you should have a very memorable time.

If you're based in Leeds then you're also not too far from the Lake District (about 2 hours drive). The climbing on Gimmer Crag is very good and dries quickly after the rain but it does get busy. If you want to experience British mountain trad at its finest then head up to Scafell Crag and do Great Eastern Route on the East Buttress in the morning and Moss Ghyll Grooves on the Main Crag in the afternoon. You'll need to set off early from Leeds but it would be magical on a warm day.


I shall forever remember this day as the day when Will didn't disagree with me about climbing venues :wink:
Lindsay M
 
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Re: Tips for August

Postby flaviop » Tue Jun 25, 2019 8:59 am

I'll start studying.
flaviop
 
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Location: North Italy


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