Holyhead Camping Meet 7th-8th Sept

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Re: Holyhead Camping Meet 7th-8th Sept

Postby CathS » Mon Sep 09, 2019 9:15 am

Yes - great meet thanks everyone 8)

Luckily Castell Helen never became a complete clusterf#ck (although we had to wait around a bit). More like a melting pot of two different clubs.
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Re: Holyhead Camping Meet 7th-8th Sept

Postby Ian Ashman » Mon Sep 09, 2019 10:01 am

Thanks all for a great meet. Weather held out and despite the crowds (a consequence of three clubs converging at same weekend including LMC, the peak Mynydd climbing club (18 members including a stray LMC member !) and the Chester mountaineering club.
Quick summary of what I can remember.
Friday
Keith & I squeezed in quick ascent of North West Passage.
Saturday
Peter & Lorraine headed off for traversing adventures in Porth Dafach.
The Wills headed for Wen slab and Quartz Icicle and meeting up with climbing royalty. James McHaffie and a half dozen cameramen were setting up a re-enactment of first ascent (appropriately kitted out in out in old kit). Unfortunately the camera team had missed the real stars as the young Wills had already skipped up Quartz Icicle exiting up Dream finish before the filming crowds arrived. Then they nipped off to Castle Helen for the Atlantis/ NW Passage combi.
Jen & Tom headed for Holyhead Mountain and climbed loads including Breaking the Barrier. Cath & Nadine were there too and climbing too many to remember but included Cursing, Teaser and Bruvers. :D
JR/Dave headed initially to Rhoscolyn and amongst others climbed Icarus (as Dave commented appropriately melting in a suntrap). Then relocated to Holyhead Mountain where JR tested Dave’s seconding stamina placing 4 huge awkwardly placed hexes in King Bee Crack – no mean effort in a 37m pitch.
Keith/Ian headed for North Stack wall but couldn’t get on planned routes due to higher neaps tides. Didn’t fancy the Bells so we escaped up Green Gilbert but had lovely meeting with family of seals who were smiling at us trying miserably to boulder hop to get on our planned routes. Then headed to Wen slab to meet Wills and did Quartz Icicle but despite trying really hard we don’t think we managed to get on the film either.

The pub was busy than usual too due to a gathering of paddlers.
Sunday
Saw us all at a very busy Castle Helen but despite this teams managed to queue patiently and completed ascents of Lighthouse Arete, Blanco and Atlantis. JR & Dave linking up with Rachel Sproggs ? (a fully paid up LMC member :D ) on route. Peter and Lorraine headed upwards to Holyhead Mountain.

Thanks all really enjoyed it & apologies if I have missed anyone’s prize lead.
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Re: Holyhead Camping Meet 7th-8th Sept

Postby JR » Mon Sep 09, 2019 10:41 am

Ian - it's Rachel Spraggs! A team of 3 worked quite well on Blanco as the belay stances were just large enough and we got to lead a pitch each.

JR.
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Re: Holyhead Camping Meet 7th-8th Sept

Postby CathS » Mon Sep 09, 2019 11:19 am

Looking at various route descriptions and photos, I think Nadine and I accidentally did Lighthouse Arete Direct yesterday: the result of me yakking too much on the busy belay ledge, not studying the guidebook thoroughly enough, and just following the line of the team in front by belaying too early on the traverse. Durr!

Made for a brilliant second pitch for Nadine, and I expect a better climb overall, but just a short easy walk for me on the 1st pitch :roll:
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Re: Holyhead Camping Meet 7th-8th Sept

Postby Tom_J » Mon Sep 09, 2019 12:48 pm

Thanks for organizing Ian. I really enjoyed it.

It's a great location, and I hope to be back!
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Re: Holyhead Camping Meet 7th-8th Sept

Postby Will S » Mon Sep 09, 2019 1:18 pm

Thanks Ian for organising a great meet. Sounds like you all had a great time on Sunday too.

Hopefully the campsite is still there next year!
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Re: Holyhead Camping Meet 7th-8th Sept

Postby CathS » Mon Sep 09, 2019 2:06 pm

Yes the campsite and clubhouse/pub were great. Lovely to camp in such a peaceful spot.

Hopefully I'll get to sample the veggie curry next time :D
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Re: Holyhead Camping Meet 7th-8th Sept

Postby CathS » Mon Sep 09, 2019 6:29 pm

I've just read Steve Ashton's description of the abseil down Castell Helen in 'North Wales - 100 Classic Climbs (1988)':

'The first abseil to the platform cut across every instinct. Screeching gulls, frothing sea, inaccessible ledge: this is the stuff of childhood nightmares - stranded on a hidden ledge above the sea, screams drowned by crashing waves, parents walking away to mourn their lost child...'

:lol: :lol: :lol:

Classic Ashton, and absolutely what you don't want to read before you do the route!
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Re: Holyhead Camping Meet 7th-8th Sept

Postby Ainsworp » Mon Sep 09, 2019 8:29 pm

Fantastic camp site and I am in love with Anglesey. Really hope we are going next year. Fancy paddle boarding next time. Thanks for organising. Peter
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Re: Holyhead Camping Meet 7th-8th Sept

Postby Ian Ashman » Mon Sep 09, 2019 8:53 pm

Ainsworp wrote:Fantastic camp site and I am in love with Anglesey. Really hope we are going next year. Fancy paddle boarding next time. Thanks for organising. Peter


Pleased to hear it Pete, it was great having you around. Maybes sea kayaking for a day next time.... I might join you too :D
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