Beginner climbing shoes

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Hirsty1989
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Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2023 10:51 am

Beginner climbing shoes

Post by Hirsty1989 »

Hi all,

Thank you for letting me join you on Tuesday. I have decided to bite the bullet and invest in some climbing shoes.

I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions for what shoes I should look at? I have a go outdoors voucher so was thinking of starting there.

Thanks

Matthew
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SteveM
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Re: Beginner climbing shoes

Post by SteveM »

Regardless of the brand, definitely try them on in store and don’t buy them too tight!

I like Evolv shoes, available at the Climbing Hub in Bradford and quite a forgiving fit and comfy shoes. The Kronos is a great Velcro shoe, good for indoors and also soft enough for smearing on gritstone when you climb outdoors.

Also Unparallel shoes, available at the Depot walls. If you prefer a lace-up shoe, they have the
Up shoe which is also pretty comfy.

But that depends on the shape of your feet so go try them on ;-)
Lindsay M
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Location: Whitkirk, Leeds

Re: Beginner climbing shoes

Post by Lindsay M »

Everyone's feet are different so try a bunch on in the shop and see what's comfortable. Ignore all the stuff on the Internet about downsizing 5 sizes. Your footwork won't be better if you can't see the holds through the tears.

You want them to be snug but not painful. Check the material as unlined leather will stretch a bit so you need to consider that in what size you buy, synthetic doesn't stretch nearly as much.

You don't need a pair of top of the range, £150, aggressively downsized shoes (unless you really want then). If the flat ones work for you, go for it. Shauna Coxsey won the overall bouldering WC title twice wearing 5.10 Anasazis*.

*before Adidas bought 5.10 and made them ~@!*#
MW1989
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Joined: Thu Apr 18, 2019 11:03 pm

Re: Beginner climbing shoes

Post by MW1989 »

Climbing shoes are a nightmare. My approach, have plenty of time, go in the shop and try on every single pair you can see, try on all the sizes up and down - it takes ages. Choose the most comfy. Stand up in them, walk around - are they still comfy ? If you cant walk in them how can you stand on your tip-toes on a tiny hold ...

most people dont wear socks... i use really thin ankle socks (people stare if you wear long socks...)

'Beginner shoes' e.g. Boreal Joker's tend to have a flatter sole (not an aggressive curve) and dont need taking off so often after climbs. They are a good general shoe, good for standing on belays, and shoving your feet into cracks plus are a bit 'edgy' - they are not so great for slab/smearing compared to some 'slippers'. I have these, they are ok for low grade routes and I manage to follow several 'proper climbers' up harder routes (HVS and low extreme's) Wouldn't be my choice for bold slabs...

I did have some really good 5.10 Asanazi (old version) velcro - these were much better on slabs, but again you lose a bit on stiffness but I seemed to manage. They shrank (or my feet grew ?) left them on too long, sore toes...

Good luck in the eternal search, my all time fave' were a pair of Kamet from 20 years ago... but they were quite smelly and there were significant objections by people travelling in the same vehicle as them and the shoes were often relegated to the roof rack...

p.s. Decathlon have some cheap boots, no idea if they are any good...
Lindsay M
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Re: Beginner climbing shoes

Post by Lindsay M »

All the kids are wearing socks these days Martin. Consider yourself back in fashion.
Hirsty1989
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Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2023 10:51 am

Re: Beginner climbing shoes

Post by Hirsty1989 »

Thank you all!
kankudai
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Joined: Mon Dec 31, 2018 7:36 pm
Location: Leeds

Re: Beginner climbing shoes

Post by kankudai »

My first shoes were la sportiva tarantula. Awesome and super comfy. Truth is, you gonna ruin your first shoes so no point spending too much money on them. Get something that's comfy but snug and won't break the bank. Then climb as often as possible... Welcome to the club, and see you there at the wall :)
# Lukasz Kisala (Lucas)
kankudai
Posts: 185
Joined: Mon Dec 31, 2018 7:36 pm
Location: Leeds

Re: Beginner climbing shoes

Post by kankudai »

Lattice Training released today an very good guide to climbing shoes, so have a look: https://youtu.be/eBqMy5MmoOo
# Lukasz Kisala (Lucas)
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