Ama Dablam 2013

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stuartcoupe
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Ama Dablam 2013

Post by stuartcoupe »

Whilst trying to find other things to do, rather than type up the AGM minutes, I found an almost finished trip report for my last nepal trip, so I finished it off.
Here it is...

Ama Dablam November 2013

Having arrived in Kathmandu and most of the team assembled it was a five o'clock wake up for the flight to Lukla. The chaos of the domestic terminal suddenly came to an end as we were whisked away on an airport bus to board the first flight out. The flight to Lukla from Kathmandu is one of those 'special' flights. The short runway on the hillside in Lukla makes it a difficult place to land and the small aeroplane seams to almost stop in the air as the tiny runway rapidly approaches. Then suddenly the plane stops on the runway and you are almost thrown out on to the tarmac to be herded away by the police, armed with whistles, to arrivals to find out if your bag was on the plane.


The trek to base camp was the usual journey up the Khumbu. It was late season so the paths were quiet. We had two days in Namchee Bazaar staying right at the top of the town. It was here we got our first views of Ama Dablam. Along with the views came news of conditions. The unusual October snow in the area had prevented anyone getting to Camp 3, made the walks up to ABC a nightmare and left the basecamp area covered in snow. On the route up the valley we visit a small temple and are given prayer scarfs and wished luck by the lama. We continued past the branch in the path to the Ama Dablam base camp and headed on to Pheriche as part of the acclimatisation strategy. Two nights here at the 'White Yak' and a trek to 5000m for more acclimatisation. The trek felt hard but the lodge was very pleasant and comfortable, except for the bathroom!

Then off to the base camp. Here we had DVDs and a large screen in the huge heated mess tent. Electricity in the evenings from the solar system or the generator. Jagged Globe store their Everest base camp equipment nearby in the valley so it is used for Ama Dablam too. The place is quite busy with expeditions moving in and out all the time. Mobile phone reception is possible a fifteen minute walk up the hill - the timing does depend on how acclimatised you are!



Before doing anything else at base camp a puja is required. The local lama is summoned and preparations made. Much burning and throwing of things along with the odd shot of whiskey and we are done. The prayer flags have been hoisted above the camp and all the axes and crampons blessed too!
Apparently his prayer book has a section for Ama Dablam expeditions!

Then it's fixed rope training at a local crag. All makes sense. Jumaring with one jammer might be a little physical on the hill though! The technique involves holding the jumar, which is just attached to the harness, in one hand and the 'dead' end of the rope in the other. Having positioned both feet in the best position make an upward push on the jumar and a downward pull in the rope!

Next day is a walk to ABC, a tough day and a hint at what the days ahead will be like. The unseasonal snow doesn't help with the path but there's no escaping the fact that we are at altitude and it's a long uphill slog. The route seams to last forever and gives a view of the other side of the Southwest ridge which will be the scene for much of the climbing over the following days.

The next trip is off to Camp 1 where we will spend two nights and get on to the fixed ropes and try get to the top of the 'Yellow Tower'. As this involves self catering for a couple of days it requires breaking open the barrels of mountain food. It is all spread on a large tarp on the ground and we all get stuck in and guess what food will seam edible when camped up on the mountain - as we find out this is easier said than done. The 'Yellow tower' is a 30m rock wall that frees at HVS (and is just hard work on fixed ropes) just before Camp 2. This is the first night at camp 1. This is out of view of base camp on the other side of the south west ridge. It is just above some smooth slabs with fixed ropes to aid access. The tents here are on rock platforms made from the piles of granite blocks that make up this part of the mountain. There is quite a slope to the camp and getting around isn't that easy. The fixed ropes to Camp 2 start at the far side of camp. These ropes form a continuous line to Camp 2 with the amount of and quality of ropes usually an indication of the difficulty of a particular section. Easy snow slope traverses has a single nylon 'washing line' type rope. Traverses on the slabs which usually require committing to rope usually have a couple of 10mm static lines. The night at Camp 1 goes well with snow melting, eating and drinking the priority before a very early night. Through the night we hear several large avalanches or rock falls. The journey to the yellow tower goes well the next day over the snow and rock. It isn't possible to take crampons on and off - it would take too long - so we opt for no crampons on this section. The rough granite is reassuringly grippy with the large heavy boots on. Two rock walls of about 20m at about Severe and various other obstacles litter the route. Delays for fixing of new ropes on the vertical sections give a welcome chance of a breather as well as some reassurance of the states of the ropes we are going to have to commit to. Clear instructions on which ropes to use for what purpose are relayed around the team. The route is marked by many ropes, some new, some old, some half buried in ice. The anchor points are a knitting work of art!


A few days rest and it's back for the summit attempt. This will include an over night at Camps 1 and 2 before a summit push. Despite conditions improving on the mountain, the 'Mushroom Ridge' which is passable, is not safe enough for the carrying required to establish a Camp 3. We head up as the second group from our expedition. The amount of space at the infamous Camp 2 means the team has to be split. The route from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is hard. The increased load in the pack this time makes progress very hard. Half an hour in and I am wondering if I can go on. Words of encouragement seam to do the trick and I keep going. The rock pitches are climbed with the aid of the jumar. Using hand holds made moving the pack up much easier. Soon we arrive at the 'Tower'. The pack is put in a haul bag for this pitch which makes the Jumaring seam trivial. A few minutes along the ridge and I eventually arrive in Camp 2. As warned, this iconic place has an atmosphere similar to the small hut behind the base camp. Luckily we have the tents around the corner on the snow slopes away from the mess and filth. For unavoidable reasons my tent partner has been called away so I'm in by myself tonight. This probably means more work but I'll have lots of space to get organised and of course to try and sleep. I will have to be ready, suited and plastic booted, by 2.30 am.

It's off for the summit in the dark. I can just see the small area light by the cone of my headtorch in front of me. Looking back down the mountain the other lights from other people are visible following us up the ridge. The climbing is very hard. Snow, ice and rock - all quite vertical. To camp 3 is more icy than the previous day so crampons are the order of today. Sparks are clearly visible as the crampon points skid off the small rock holds. Progress is punctuated by the required breathers. The air is getting a lot thiner and the climbing more demanding. The route winds up along the ridge weaving and turning to find the path of least resistance. The way is clearly marked by the ever present fixed line. How well fixed was always in the back of my mind. How long had the ice screws been in place. We pass below menacing looking ice walls - not a place to stop and rest so we must keep moving. We keep moving up and along the infamous mushroom ridge and then find ourselves just below the Dablam in the area used as Camp 3 before the 2006 avalanche. As we moved up on to this level platform and we are now in a more exposed area, we are confronted by a powerful wind. We see a small tent shelter and decide to use this as a refuge from the wind in the hope that it will subside and we can carry on. Sheltering in the tent I find it very hard to keep awake - a worrying sign this far up the mountain. The wind dies down and we head for the summit. The going is very hard as I stagger through the snow. After stumbling several times I make the decision to turn around. The steep ground covered in the morning has to be abseiled to safety. I didn't think this would be trivial and I was right. Descending the route, this time in daylight, I get to see the ridge and camps which were all in darkness on the way up. The basecamp is visible from the mushroom ridge all that way below. The abseils are hard and scary as the exhaustion makes holding the hope tricky. Cautiously I choose the figure of eight over a 'Sherpa' abseil on some of the easier ground. It was a real effort making it to Camp 2 without incident. When we did arrive at Camp 2, it was decided that a push would be made to get back down to base camp. A brief rest and hot juice and I was back on the familiar route following the fixed ropes down to Camp 1. The down hill was even a struggle at this point in the day, but exhausted I carried on. The boulders below Camp 1 were crossed for the last time. They won't be missed. Then the now very familiar path down to the tents took the last of my energy. As I staggered into camp the rest of the team came to greet me. I collapsed into a chair and within moments I was eating soup while being quizzed on the days adventures.
Marq
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Re: Ama Dablam 2013

Post by Marq »

Worthy of an award!

Thanks for the write up.

Marq
johnnightingale
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Re: Ama Dablam 2013

Post by johnnightingale »

Wow!Sounds like hard work.
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xphoenix0
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Re: Ama Dablam 2013

Post by xphoenix0 »

Great Work Stu.
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Dave R
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Re: Ama Dablam 2013

Post by Dave R »

Really enjoyed the write-up. Thanks for sharing.
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