Pembroke August bank hol 26th-29th

Topics related to weekend meets, including day walks

Pembroke August bank hol 26th-29th

Postby PennyPenny » Fri Jul 29, 2022 3:01 pm

Roll up yer sleeves and get ready for some of the highest quality sea cliffs in the UK. Cracks, crimps, pockets, edges, shelves, overhangs, beautiful faces, absorbing slabs, clean corners and soaring arêtes, with nothing but the sea beneath your feet and your second on the end of the line while you thread your way up the wall. If Yorkshire limestone trad has a trendy 90s hipster cousin who likes to kick back with a cocktail on a Friday, then Pembroke is it.

CAMPSITE DETAILS
Conventionally, the LMC (and literally every other climber in the UK...) will stay at Bosherston Campsite for August bank holiday, which is a short drive/walk to many of the main sea cliffs. The campsite does not require booking and is £5/day. You must bring cash for the purpose of paying this tariff. The owner will drive around on a quad bike each morning to collect your dosh. Basic facilities: Fields for camping. Washing up station. Cold showers to help to sooth your aching muscles. Raised fires/bbqs are welcome. Noise *should* stop around 11pm but some earplugs will not go amiss.

You are welcome to find a more luxury campsite! Please post up if you intend to do so.

GUIDEBOOKS
If this is your first trip, the select Wired Guide is a useful enough resource: https://www.climbers-shop.com/publications/climbing-guides/pembroke-rock--wired-guides__10906395. There are also definitive guidebooks available for anyone super keen.

ACCESS, RESTRICTIONS and RESPECTING THE ENVIRONMENT
We need to respect and protect this precious climbing venue.

You may notice that a lot of the cliffs list military and/or bird ban restrictions. The military restrictions are lifted for the August bank holiday weekend and generally speaking the whole of Pembroke becomes open access. There are a couple of exceptions. In particular, please post up for partners if you are looking at routes at Range West, and read some info here about the military briefings that you must attend in order to climb here: https://www.thebmc.co.uk/pembroke-2021-review-and-range-west-2022

The guidebook will give you a rough idea of any bird restrictions relevant to end-Aug. Check UKC for updates and look out for a red markers when you are walking the sea cliff tops. You should not climb between these red markers. More info here: https://www.pembrokeshirecoast.wales/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/Climbing_eng.pdf

The guidebook/UKC will also note if a route/sea cliff is tidal. Various websites list the tide times, eg: https://www.tide-forecast.com/locations/Pembroke/tides/latest. There will also be endless chat about this on the campsite each evening. You should also think about swell conditions. >6 foot will start to affect climbs. You can check this on magic seaweed, a surfing forecast website: https://magicseaweed.com, and hey, if the surf's in and the climbing's out, there's one logical solution...

Generally speaking, you will abseil into the routes in Pembroke. You will likely need a >50m ab rope. Check before descending if your rope is adequate. A couple of compact rope protectors can help to look after the sea cliffs and prolong the life of your rope. You don't need to spend silly money on these. Even an old trouser leg attached to a klemheist works just fine. As a rule, use your own judgment when it comes to abseiling down a line that someone else has fixed in place.

Okay, that's it! Go well and start making a wish list. This is guaranteed to be a mega weekend in your climbing calendar.
Last edited by PennyPenny on Fri Jul 29, 2022 3:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Pembroke August bank hol 26th-29th

Postby hburns » Fri Jul 29, 2022 3:12 pm

Me and Dixy will be there in and around Pembroke from the 22nd or possibly before. I'll be trying to grab people to play on some HVS/E1s some of the days :mrgreen:

won't be looking at the BB board much during august as I can't access it from my phone, but if nearer the time there's a whatsapp group made add us to it, please :)
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Re: Pembroke August bank hol 26th-29th

Postby CathS » Fri Jul 29, 2022 5:00 pm

Great! Sign me up 8)
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Re: Pembroke August bank hol 26th-29th

Postby Gmatthew » Mon Aug 01, 2022 1:04 pm

Can't wait for this! Prob heading down Tuesday 23rd and heading home on the Monday.
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Re: Pembroke August bank hol 26th-29th

Postby Peter » Mon Aug 01, 2022 9:25 pm

I'm in as long as I can find car sharing or a lift. Need to go down on Friday night but am flexible on return date as long as I book it in. Perhaps Tuesday or Wednesday
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Re: Pembroke August bank hol 26th-29th

Postby Luke smith » Sun Aug 07, 2022 8:21 am

I'm coming and heading down with Graham and Sophie on Tuesday.
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Re: Pembroke August bank hol 26th-29th

Postby TayRex » Mon Aug 08, 2022 7:39 am

Dan and I are going to Pembroke... YEESSS
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