DRY TOOLING & WINTER PREP MEET - Masson - 1st Oct

[SeanHowson]

Hi folks,

For those unaware, dry-tooling is a sport for those of us who enjoy ice climbing so much that we go out to specially designated crags around the country where you can use ice axes & crampons on dry rock all year round.

Tooling is a very niche discipline in the UK and a big passion of mine. It can be a taboo topic among keyboard climbers. So, this is a chance to be open-minded, venture outside your normal climbing styles, have a laugh, and get a pump that'll leave you driving to work in first gear all week.

ALL WELCOME! If you're a seasoned dry-tooler, or if you've never touched an axe before. The point of this, is not just tooling, but also to share some knowledge with those who are interested in getting into winter climbing.

It's also a chance to learn much more advanced techniques that can be applied to ice climbing (the stuff you'll never learn trogging up grade 3 gullies!).

The Deets:
Date: 1st October 2023
Time: 9am - all day.
Location: Masson Lees quarry.
Weather: Masson goes in all weather! The tooling area is completely sheltered from the rain. No excuses for any of you meteorologist types.
Parking: WOULD ADVICE PARKING IN BONSALL VILLAGE, TAKE THE LIMESTONE WAY UP TO THE QUARRY. I dont give a toss where you park, just dont park on Nailor lane (nearest parking to the crag), relationship with the local farmer is not good and we are meeting the week before MassonFest, a big hoard of climbers seen parking on nailor lane could result in MassonFest being called off or having your wingmirror kicked off by the Trunchbull/farmer.
Guide book: Too big to attach here, just whatsapp me and i'll send it (number below).

Gear:
Helmets, harness & belay plate, no trad gear needed, 120cm sling & locker, or PAS may be useful.

Draws - Dont bring more than 2, tooling routes are bolted and equiped with in-situ draws.

Axes - You'll need 2! Semi-technical axes (like Quarks) or leashless style axes (like Nomics) are ideal. Walking & alpine axes are not suitable.

Crampons - Monopoints and crampon compatible boots are ideal. If you only have mountaineering style crampons (like G12's) you'll likely be more comfortable in rock shoes. Higher graded tooling routes rely entirely on drilled slots in the rock for placements, these slots are shaped for monopoints. While the easier graded routes (up to ~M6) can be done in rock shoes at a pinch.

Rope - I'll bring a few ropes and a few others have volunteered, so dont worry about rope. Unless you specifically want to bring one.

This is about generating new interest, so, I'm not expecting everyone to be fully kitted. There will be several pairs of axes for borrowing and some crampons (if you have boots). If you have got gear, there is no expectation to loan it out at all, kit is expensive, if you don't want to risk others using it, that's fair!

Comment if you're interested here, or drop me a whatsapp(07968388556)

Current list of people mad enough (& car shares):
1: James M, Ash B, Kitty D
2: John W, Almasa, Tom
3: Dan L, Chris H, Rosi E-
4: James R,
5: Will P
6: Sean H, 2 other trusted belayers who are helping me set stuff up early doors.
7: Rin
8: Steph J

[SarahS]

I'm interested and have climbing gear but no fancy ice axes or crampons just walking ones.

[SeanHowson]

I'm interested and have climbing gear but no fancy ice axes or crampons just walking ones.

Nice one! We'll manage dont worry!

[JR]

I'm going to express an interest too.
I might be able to lend someone a pair of Quarks - but I need to check the pick ratings (I'm pretty sure they're T-rated, but not really suitable for mad tourquing moves - same as my Nomics really - they're really set up for ice-dominated stuff with the slightly thiner picks).
I do need to fix the broken fastening on my B3s beforehand too!

JR.

[SeanHowson]

I'm going to express an interest too.
I might be able to lend someone a pair of Quarks - but I need to check the pick ratings (I'm pretty sure they're T-rated, but not really suitable for mad tourquing moves - same as my Nomics really - they're really set up for ice-dominated stuff with the slightly thiner picks).
I do need to fix the broken fastening on my B3s beforehand too!

JR.

Top man, looking forward dude!

Assuming your quark picks are factory ones? Or at least any of the petzl aftermarket picks: They will definitely be T-rated and will be totally fine for Masson, just dont bother sharpening them. It'll only blunt them faster. One day on dry routes wont hurt them though

There aren't any routes below about D8 at masson that absolutely force you to use torques anyway.

If the nomics are fitted with pure-ice picks and you want to keep them pretty. You can always bring some finger tape, it works surprisingly well to protect them. If you're fussed for it.

[James_Mac_Climber]

I'll be there. I can probably lend a spare pair of B2 compatible mono points.

[arb82]

Hi James, thanks for arranging this. I've added it to my calendar! Ash

[SeanHowson]

James, dont think because you signed me up for a few evening meets that you can be taking credit for organising my meet now. Cheeky donkey.

[kittydowry]

I would be up keen for this, have climbing gear but no crampons or axes.

[SeanHowson]

I would be up keen for this, have climbing gear but no crampons or axes.

Hey, by all means come along!

Do you have any crampon compatible boots at all?

If not, normal rockshoes will see you through the day for sure, tooling can be weird to get used to, so having rock shoes for the first go can be a nice comfort zone for those used to trad& sport etc

There should be a couple of pairs of crampons floating about to try if you have some boots.

[Ssjenks]

I'll come along, arms are over rated anyway.

..I have no gear, and also no idea.

Steph

[SeanHowson]

Bring some rock shoes, not your favohrite ones Steph!
We'll source some axes

[tmguilfoyle89]

Hey,

This sounds fun! I've got some old black diamond cobra ice axes - not sure if they're the right rating? And some B2 winter boots but unlikely to have stiff enough crampons. I'll bring my climbing shoes in case too. Sign me up - clueless on drytooling/winter stuff in general!

Cheers,
Tom

[SeanHowson]

Hey Tom,

Cobras are wicked axes, they will surely do you. Really the key for tooling regarding crampons is having monopoints, more so than stiffness. Wear the b2's for the walk in and put rock shoes in your bag. Just be aware masson is mucky, so maybe not your favourite sport shoes!
-S

[JWA]

Hi Sean

I have some winter gear, but no dry-tooling experience. Keen though.

Hopefully my Nepal Evo's aren't too heavy.
I have Grivel G14 that I'll set to mono-point. Again, a bit heavy? and lots of points not used dry-tooling!
Also, 2 pair of DMM Flys, leashless with handrests. Suitable?
I have a pair of ladies Nepal Evo - size 39 if anyone wants to borrow (or make me an offer).

John W